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Monday, January 30, 2012

Introduction to Food Photography

Food photography may not be as popular as landscape photography or portraiture, but it’s a genre which holds many advantages over others. We all buy, prepare and consume food, so we don't need go to too much extra trouble in sourcing our subjects. It’s something that can be done in the convenience of our own homes (regardless of the weather), and by working with the seasons you have a continuously changing variety of subjects to work with.

 

The photographs you see in magazines and books will almost certainly have had some input from a stylist, one who is experienced with working with different foods and props in order to make everything look presentable. Perhaps most of us don’t have a natural aptitude for food styling, but simple garnishes for most dishes shouldn’t be beyond anyone’s creative capabilities. So what else does the budding novice need to know?

 

What to buy

Shooting food in its natural state requires that it be fresh and ripe, and free from blemishes, bruises and marks. Just like people, putting food items in front of a camera can reveal flaws that might be completely unnoticeable when viewed less critically...

 

 While post-processing can easily deal with small hairs or other imperfections, you should ensure that whatever it is you’re buying looks as good as possible to begin with.

 

It sounds obvious, but it really pays to spend an extra few moments looking for the best quality food available; it will translate to a more appealing image and you won’t need to spend as much time processing.

 

 

Supermarkets generally stock the more cosmetically appealing foods, as opposed to local markets whose produce may vary more in appearance. Nevertheless, each has its advantages; while you may be able to find what you want easier in a larger store, a market is likely to sell more exotic foods. You may even find citrus fruits with a leaf or two still attached, or zuchinni complete with their flowers - things you may not ordinarily find in pre-packed supermarket produce.

 

Supermarkets generally stock the more cosmetically appealing foods, as opposed to local markets whose produce may vary more in appearance. Nevertheless, each has its advantages; while you may be able to find what you want easier in a larger store, a market is likely to sell more exotic foods. You may even find citrus fruits with a leaf or two still attached, or zuchinni complete with their flowers - things you may not ordinarily find in pre-packed supermarket produce.

 

Equipment

Although many professional food photographers use medium format systems for their work, both for the highest level of image quality and also for shallow depth of field, many opt for the flexibility of DSLR instead. A short to medium telephoto lens of between 60-105mm (equivalent) is ideal, allowing the photographer to quickly alternate between close-up macro images with restricted depth of field, and those further away where a number of peripheral details may be used to contextualize the main subject. Tilt-and-shift lenses can also be useful when capturing a whole table's worth of food, although these lenses are considerably more expensive than conventional optics.

 

Whether it's natural or artificial light you’re using, diffusers and reflectors can be incredibly helpful when working with food. You may not need to buy specific equipment if you don’t already have it; a sheet of fabric can be pinned to a window to help diffuse its light, while walls and ceilings can successfully be used as reflectors. Reflectors are particularly useful if you have a simple daylight-based setup where light is only coming from one side, such as a window or skylight.

 

DSLRs with live view and a self-timer can be useful for checking focus and maintaining sharpness 

A macro lens with focal length between 60-105mm is ideal for capturing most foods

 

 

 

DSLRs with live view and a self-timer can be useful for checking focus and maintaining sharpness  A macro lens with focal length between 60-105mm is ideal for capturing most foods

  

Reflectors can be used to fill in shadowy areas of dishes, particularly outdoors where you may have strong light and high contrast. If you don't have a reflector, a sheet of white card, or a nearby wall or ceiling might do the job Small spray bottles are inexpensive but useful - a fine mist of water droplets can make a huge difference to the appearance of fruit, for example, making it appear fresher and more appetizing

 

The old advice of using a gardening spray can is often mentioned when shooting flowers, but it applies equally to fresh foods. For a single shoot and smaller foods you generally won’t need much water, though, so you may find it easier to invest in a small bottle designed for containing beauty products. While physically smaller in size, this will do the job just as well and will give you greater control for smaller setups.

 

A small brush can also be helpful, either to brush away dust or hair, or for evenly distributing glazes and sauces, while a rocket blower can also be useful for foods which may be too delicate to touch without damaging, such as raspberries and other soft fruit.

 

 

Thursday, January 19, 2012

5 Simple Ways to Improve your Food Photography

When I first started my blog a year ago, I had no idea how many jobs came along with being a food blogger.  My preconceived notion was that I would create a successful dish, snap a few photos and post them to my blog, lickety-split.   I knew nothing about photo editing or food styling.  I only knew that I was passionate about confectionary and I wanted to share my love of buttercream with the world.

In those early days I was extremely unhappy with my photographs.  They didn't do justice to the desserts I worked so hard to create.  I began searching for ways to improve my food photography skills, and what I found was simpler than expected.  With each small improvement the response to my blog increased.  I began to realize how important good photos were to the health of my blog.

I've come a long way baby.

Today I find myself answering more emails about photography than baking.  I’m not a professional, but I’ve figured out a few things along the way.  If you are a budding food blogger or a beginning food photographer, here are 5 basic things you can do to improve the quality of your food photos. 

1. Turn off your flash.  This is the cardinal rule that you will hear over and over in food photography tutorials.  It doesn’t matter if you are using a point-and-shoot or SLR, turn it off.  Using a flash tends to make the subject look flat or washed out and it creates unflattering shadows.   Let’s all take a moment to look (and laugh at) my early attempt at photographing petit fours. The flash completely washes out the photo and makes the yummy strawberry jam look like orange gelatinous goo.  Not appetizing at all!

This is edible?

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Of course, no flash means you’ll be photographing during daylight hours, which brings me to tip #2.

2.  Use natural lighting. 

My make-shift studio. Most food bloggers don't have access to studios or professional lighting- myself included.

If you are following tip #1 and not using a flash then you’ll need a good light source.  I photograph 90% of my pictures at the end of my dining room table because it sits in front of a large picture window.  If you have harsh sunlight beaming directly onto your subject, drape a thin cotton sheet across the window as a diffuser (I purchased thin white curtains).  The idea is to use soft, ambient light.  Of course, there are artificial light sources that can be used if photographing during the day is not convenient for you.  Lowell Ego lights work well, but they can be a little pricey.  I have two now, but for months I got along fine with just one.  I utilize them more during the winter months, but I much prefer the use of natural light.

 

3. Organize.  Try to plan out the elements of your shoot long before you prepare your food. This includes de-cluttering your work space as well as the camera’s field of view (look through the viewfinder for distracting objects).  In addition, pick out props and choose dishes for plating.  Having the scene set will help you swiftly execute your shoot, plus food always photographs better when it is fresh.

4. Take lots of photos.  I usually average around 150 pictures per shoot, and of those 150 I may use 5-10 in a blog post.  That may sound like a lot of pictures to edit through for such a small final lot, but I like to be picky.

A sample of one of my sessions.

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  I find that taking pictures from various angles will increase the chances for photos with “wow” factor.  Just by shifting the camera’s perspective slightly, a frame can go from boring to spectacular.  In short, move around your subject and play with camera angles.  Overhead shots offer an interesting point-of-view, and getting up close will help illustrate a special ingredient or texture.  Also, if you don’t have a nice big memory card for your camera, I’d suggest saving up for one.  It will give you the freedom to shoot as much as you like in a single session.

Left: not bad. Right: even better.

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Aside from perspective, taking “mise en place” or special ingredient photos is a good way to tell a recipe’s story.  Part of the magic of baking is taking simple elements like butter, flour and spices to create something delicious.    

Red plums and spices that will soon be made into a plum tart.

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5. Find a good photo editing program. I occasionally use Photoshop, but my program of choice is Lightroom.  I use it mainly to adjust color saturation, increase clarity and make exposure adjustments.  I find it extremely user friendly… 

Minor adjustments make the picture pop!

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…but it is not free.  With that said, there are some very good photo editing programs online that won’t cost you a penny.  One that I recommend and have used is GIMP.  You can experiment with advanced settings as well as do simple editing adjustments such as brightness, contrast and saturation.   It is a great alternative for those just getting started.   

In closing I'd like to say that there’s no better way to improve your food photography than to keep doing it.  Remember to take lots of pictures from all angles.  Edit with a critical eye.  And last but not least – relax and have fun!

By Heather Baird

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Top 5 DSLR and Interchangeable-Lens Cameras for Image Quality

1

PCWorld Rating

Prices from $569

Canon EOS Rebel T3i

The Canon EOS Rebel T3i, with an 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS optional kit lens, is a complete picture-taking and moviemaking machine.

Full Review | Specs - Rated: April 29, 2011

2

PCWorld Rating

Prices from $880

Canon EOS 60D

The EOS 60D is an excellent upgrade for EOS Rebel owners who want more control, an articulated LCD, wireless flash, a more substantial body, and high-quality video capture.

Full Review | Specs - Rated: January 19, 2011

3

PCWorld Rating

Prices from $830

Sony Alpha DSLR-A580

If you want video capability, the A580 has it--but as with all SLRs, you should be aware of the limitations before you commit to this camera for its video functions. The Alpha A580 is, first and foremost, a great still camera.

Full Review | Specs

4

PCWorld Rating

Prices from $789

Nikon D5100 DSLR

The latest addition to Nikon’s expansive DSLR line, the 16-megapixel D5100 fits neatly between the entry-level D3100 and the more sophisticated D7000.

Full Review | Specs - Rated: June 15, 2011

5

PCWorld Rating

Prices from $1,475

Canon EOS 7D

Canon’s EOS 7D digital SLR is designed for users who want fast shooting performance. It can shoot Full HD video, and if you mount it on a tripod and slowly pan across your shot, you’ll get crystal-clear footage.

Full Review | Specs - Rated: February 01, 2010

 

Friday, January 13, 2012

Digital SLR photography guide for beginners and amateurs

Listed below are a few useful tips for those photographers progressing from a point and click camera to a digital SLR (also known as DSLR) camera. Note, these are basic DSLR photography tips for beginners that I wish I had read when first starting out.

If you're after more techinical information on how to use your camera, then we recommend reading our articles on: DSLR Settings.

Or maybe you're looking for hundreds of DSLR tips for beginners that include example images and 'How To' guides: DSLR Photography Tips.

Before you go away however, read these 12 important DSLR tips for beginners. They will help get you off to a great start!

DSLR For Beginners

  1. Number one DSLR photography tip for beginners - Don't throw your camera manual away.

    It will become your new best friend. Read it as often as possible, especially in the first couple of months after purchasing your DSLR camera. Always store it somewhere handy. For example in your camera bag.
  2. Buy a UV filter for each lens you own. It's easier to replace a scratched lens filter than it is to replace your actual lens.
  3. Learn to use all your SLR camera settings. Even those you don't think you'd ever use. Practise changing settings like ISO, aperture and shutter speed, so you know them like the back of your hand. A moving animal won't sit and pose until you work out your settings.
  4. In addition to UV filters, other important pieces of equipment should include a sturdy tripod and a remote release. They both come in handy for taking photographs that require long shutter speeds. For example night photography or slow motion water.
  5. You can never have enough SLR / DSLR photography magazines and books to learn from. The best ones will explain what camera settings were used, along with each photograph displayed.
  6. Don't touch or blow on the mirror inside your camera body when you have the lens off. If you damage the sensor, you may as well buy another camera body, because that's how much it will cost to fix. If you notice spots appearing in your photos, buy a cleaning kit or dust blower from your local camera store. Many now have an inhouse cleaning service which is always a good alternative.

  7. Don't change your lens outside if it's windy. Put the main lens on your camera before you leave the house. If you need to change the lens outside, face the camera body downwards. Dust can't fall upward onto the camera's sensor.
  8. If at first you find your getting a lot of blurred photo's, change to a fast shutter speed. The faster the photograph is taken, the less chance there is of it being effected by camera shake. Holding the camera closer to your body or resting it on a nearby object is also a good tip. If you're taking nature shots, steady yourself by leaning against a tree.
  9. When you buy a digital camera bag, think about the future. Many photographers on average own at least 3 lenses. Personally I own 2 camera bags. One holds a camera with a single lens. This is useful for times when I know I'll only be needing one lens. For example, if I'm going out to photograph landscapes I don't need to lug myself down with all 3 lenses. Or if I'm going out to photograph macro's, then I don't need to also carry my landscape lens. My second bag carries my camera and all three lenses. This one is useful for travelling purposes.
  10. Learn what RAW file format is. Setting your digital camera to shoot in RAW is particularly useful for beginners to SLR photography. If you have your camera's white balance or picture style set wrong when you take a photograph, you can change this later on with a RAW editor on your computer. There will also be many times when you only get one chance to take the photograph. For example, a bird won't fly past time and time again until you have the cameras white balance set correctly for that specific scene.
  11. The best way to learn what your SLR camera can do, is through experimentation. If your taking a photograph of running water, try both fast and slow shutter speeds to see for yourself what the difference is. Or if your photographing a beautiful landscape, try different aperture settings. You'll be surprised at how many photo's you can get from shooting the same scenery with different settings.
  12. Always press the shutter button half way down to prefocus before going all the way and taking the photograph. This is one of the most useful DSLR photography tips I share with all beginners, as it will usually result in clearer photo's every time. It is also especially useful when you can anticipate where a subject is going to be positioned before it gets there. You can prefocus on that spot by pressing and holding the shutter button half way, then as it comes into view, press the rest of the way down.

 

Thursday, January 12, 2012

five best bird photo

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Macro photography tips with example photographs and images

Macro photography tips, images and photographs

Shown below is a set of 10 amazing macro photographs. Each photograph includes an explanation of the camera equipment that was used and tips on how it was taken. While many of the images have been taken with a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens, the settings can be reproduced with any real macro lens. You’ll aslo notice they were photographed with an entry level DLSR camera from quite a few years back now! My point being, anyone with a DSLR camera can shoot awesome macro photographs.

Click on each image to see a larger version of the photograph.

1. Hoverfly in flight

Photograph of a hoverfly in flight was taken with a Canon 400D SLR entry level camera, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens and a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash.

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #1: If possible, use a ring flash or twin lite flash when shooting macro. It will allow you to shoot at a reasonable speed, yet enable you to keep the aperture on a high f/11 for sufficient depth of field. Of course, I understand it isn’t always possible for fellow DSLR photographers to purchase such equipment. No problem, keep reading for other tips.

This macro photograph of a flying insect was taken in a shady part of the garden. Using a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash allowed me to keep the aperture on a high f/11 without sacrificing shutter speed (exposure). Having the ability to keep the shutter speed at a fast 1/200th of a second allowed me to capture the moving insect sharply. It also allowed me to hand hold the camera without the use of a tripod. Like many macro photographers, I find a tripod really restrictive when photographing insects.

Macro photography tip #2: Learn to use manual focus when shooting insects. As the hoverfly was constantly moving, I found turning off the lens AF (automatic focus) function made the job so much easier. If I hadn’t turned this lens setting off, it would have kept swimming or refocusing, making it near impossible to capture a sharp image of the hoverfly.

2. Unshaven dragonfly face

This macro was taken with a Canon 400D SLR camera, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens and a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash.

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #3: Learn how to be patient. Don’t run around like a mad photographer chasing an insect that won’t sit still. In my experience, that doesn’t work! You’ll be surprised how many insects are as curious of you, as you are of them.

I was lucky with this macro shot to have found a curious dragonfly. He sat really still and would allowed me to move in as close as I needed for a detailed macro photo of his whiskers. This also allowed me to keep the camera’s lens set on AF (automatic focus).

Macro photography tip #4: Crop macro images nice and tight, especially for online viewing. The original dragonfly image was cropped with Photoshop CS2 so the dragonflies face takes up the majority of the final composition.

3. Blue dragonfly

Similar to the first two macro photographs, this one was also taken with a Canon 400D SLR camera and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.

Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #5: Once again, learn patience. This dragonfly come up to me as I sat under a tree, so I took the opportunity to take a few macro shots of it. This is one of my best tips for macro insect photography. I can’t repeat it enough. Personally, I’ve found it hopeless chasing them around like a mad photographer. That only seems to scare them away. Instead, it’s best to be patient and wait until you find a curious insect that is sitting still.

4. Macro water drop

Playing with water droplets, a Canon EF 100/2.8 Macro USM lens and extension tubes. For those that don’t know what extension tubes are, they are a plastic tube that sits between your camera’s body and the lens. When using extension tubes, you need to set your lens to MF (manual focus), because the automatic focus won’t work. Nowadays if you purchase extension tubes that are the same brand as your macro lens, you may be able to keep all the automatic functions (depending on the brand).

Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/0
Focal Length: 0 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: Onboard flash fired, as seen in the water drop.

Macro photography tip #6: Experiment with extension tubes. They are cheaper than you might think. If you view a photographs EXIF data and notice the aperture and focal length are showing as zero (0), chances are the photographer used an extension tube or some piece of equipment that sat between the camera’s body and the lens.

Macro photography tip #7: All the best macro photographers set shots up. This shot of a water droplet was taken with a plastic bag (and a pin hole in it) being held over a fish tank. The camera was then focused past the glass tank and onto the droplet. There is a detailed explanation showing the setup for it at: How to photograph water drops.


5. What the snake see’s

Photographed with a Canon 400D and a EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens. When photographing a friendly carpet snake, it was a great opportunity for a self portrait. If you click on this image and view it in a larger size, you will clearly see exactly what the snake was looking at!

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.033 sec (1/30)
Aperture: f/2.8
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Macro photography tip #8: Use a tripod if you cannot shoot faster than the length of your lens. For example, this photograph was taken with the use of a tripod and a remote release. Having a slower shutter speed of 1/30th of a second, I wouldn’t have achieved a sharp image if the camera was handheld. A general rule of thumb for hand held macro shots, is that if your lens is 100mm focal length, then the shutter speed needs to be at least 1/100th of a second or faster to achieve a sharp photograph. Therefore, if you are shooting in a shady spot of the garden, you will need a tripod to achieve great results.


6. Katydid macro

Picture of a Katydid photographed with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.

Exposure: 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #9: Just because your macro lens can shoot with an aperture of f/2.8 doesn’t mean you should use it. For this shot, the ISO was upped to 400 speed so I could keep the aperture at a higher F number of f/11. This enabled me to get more of the Katydid in sharp focus. One of the mistakes I did when I first purchased my macro lens, was to keep the F number at a low F2.8 (just because I could). Later on I realised this wasn’t always a good idea, unless you intend on getting just the eye of an insect in focus.

7. Eye in the sky (photographed by 2minutes who can be found on flickr)

This macro shot of a butterfly was photographed with a Nikon D40 camera and a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens.

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 105 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #10: When shooting macro, shutter speed is more important than ISO. Because this butterfly was moving around quite a bit, the photographer upped the ISO speed to 400, so he could keep a faster shutter speed of 1/500th of a second.

8. Fairyland

Macro photography tip #11: Learn to see. This is what I’ve always imagined fairyland to be like However, in actual fact it’s a macro shot of the tiniest moss, found at the bottom of an orchid pot. This is the beauty of macro photography, in that you get to really appreciate the smaller things in life and see them in a whole different light.

The camera was a Canon 400D SLR and the lens a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro.

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.025 sec (1/40)
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

9. Miss Ladybird

Photograph of a ladybird taken with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #12: If you don’t photograph the shot you initially want, that’s ok. The only reason the shutter speed is set to a fast 1/640th of a second in this case, is because I was attempting to capture the ladybird as it flies off. However, I wasn’t too successful this time around at getting one in flight. Although it’s still a personal favorite

10. Butt Heavy

Just had to love how hairy this little fellow was

Photo of a dragonfly taken with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.

Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

Macro photography tip #13: Make good use of morning sunlight to capture detail not seen otherwise. This particular photograph was taken at 8.30 in the morning with strong sunlight coming from behind the dragonfly. While many photographers don’t like shooting into the sun, I find when it comes to macro photography, it can often help to highlight an insects tiny hairs. You do need to be careful not to capture lens flare though. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Trying numerous angles also helps to find the best position.

by : Tanya Puntti

 

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

5 amazing of landscape photography 2011




Bonaire Northern Coast, CaribbeanCoral Cliffs, Northern Coast of Bonaire


By : Ron Niebrugge


By : chriskaylerphotography.com

Monday, January 9, 2012

Tamron SP AF 90mm f/2.8 Di Macro Lens

Introduction

The Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 SP Di macro is a recent update to the highly popular AF 90mm f/2.8 SP macro. The lens is a designated Di (Digitally Integrated) lens which refers to an optimized lens design for image sensors specially regarding chromatic aberrations (CAs). Tamron also improved the coating of the lens elements to take care of the more pronounced reflections from the image sensor. The lens belongs to Tamron's SP (Super Performance) line up indicating a professional grade lens similar to Sigma's EX lenses. On APS-C DSLRs the field-of-view is equivalent to about 145mm on full format cameras. The primary application of the lens is, obviously, macro photography but it's not limited to that - infinity focus is possible.

SPECIFICATIONS

Model

272E

Focal length

90mm

Maximum aperture

f/2.8

Angle of view

27°

Lens construction

10 elements in 9 groups

MOD (minimum object distance)

0.29m / 11.4"

Magnification ratio

1:1

Filter size

55mm

Overall length

86.5mm / 3.41"

Maximum diameter

83.2mm / 3.28"

Weight

405g / 14.3oz

Number of diaphragm blades

9

Minimum aperture

f/32

Standard accessory included

Hood

 

Figure 1 : Tamron SP AF 90 mm f/2.8 Di macro

Photo Example

 

The optical construction is made of 12 elements in 9 groups without any special elements. The lens features 9 aperture blades. Typical for most macro lenses the lens provides a max. magnification of 1:1 at a min. focus distance of 0.29m. The filter size is 55mm. With a weight of 405g and a size of 72x97mm it is more compact than e.g. the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM macro - at least a infinity focus. The length of the lens grows substantially when focusing towards closer distances.

The build quality is very good with an exceptionally smooth but little damped focus ring. The front element does not rotate so using a polarizer is not problem. Besides the lens and a softbag the lens package also includes a lens hood but this is really a strictly optional accessory item because the front element resides deep within the lens (about 2cm below the front) making it a little hard to clean the lens.

Switching between manual and auto-focus isn't done via a small switch as typical for most lenses but via a focus clutch mechanism by moving the focus ring back and forth. This can be done in any focus position. Quite nice actually (Canon & Nikon only. On Minolta and Pentax DSLRs it is a two step process). On the downside the friction of the mechanism is quite high so if you pre-focus using AF and switch back to MF you tend to shift the focus setting. The AF speed is decent for a macro lens.

 

10 Fireworks Photography Tips

Photo by : http://basedigitalphotography.com/

Tomorrow is Independence Day in the United States, and a large percentage of people will be out celebrating. One very traditional part of July 4th is watching fireworks displays, and if you are like me then you will probably be out with your camera tomorrow evening. Here are a few tips to help you get some great fireworks photographs:

1. Use a tripod. You need to make sure that your camera is as still and stable as possible to get the best shots.

2. If you have a cable release, be sure to bring it! If you don’t have a cable release, you can also try playing with the self-timer feature but your shots and opportunities will be limited. Some camera models have off-brand cable-releases for under $20 … if you are interested in doing any type of night or experimental photography then I highly recommend getting one.

3. Shoot in “manual” mode. Use a low ISO, set your aperture somewhere in the middle (usually between f/8 and f/16) and set your shutter speed to “bulb”. Then, as the fireworks go off, hold the shutter open for 5-10 seconds. Try a few different settings within the first minute of the show to get a good feel for the light and speed of the fireworks. (The overall exposure values are going to vary depending on the amount of ambient light/fireworks/etc; there’s really no steadfast formula.)

4. Plan ahead. Get to your location early and try to find out where the fireworks will be coming from. You want to set up your gear well before the start of the show … many of the displays go very quickly, and if you know the general direction to aim your camera then you are already one step ahead.

5. Don’t just photograph the fireworks. Look at your surroundings and see what else you can include in the photo. People? Bridges? A significant landmark? Additional elements and identifiable scenery in the frame will add a lot of depth to your image.

6. Watch for smoke. If you can figure out which direction the wind will be blowing then try to position yourself upwind so the smoke will blow away from you. Smoke will really light up with the bursts, and if it’s between you and the fireworks then your photos will suffer.

7. Minimize chimping. Fireworks displays go very quickly and if you are always checking your LCD after each shot then you will miss out on tons of great images. It’s a good idea to check your exposure every once in a while (especially right at the beginning), but once you think you have the right settings then try to curb the temptation to look at each image until after the show.

8. Want to see more bursts and fewer trails? No problem! Find a sturdy piece of black (or dark) cardboard and, when the shutter is open, cover up the lens as the fireworks are making their way to the sky. Then, right before they explode, remove the cardboard. Boom!

9. Film shooters of the world, never fear! My best fireworks photos were from my film days (one good example is the image in this post). You don’t have instant feedback like you do with digital SLRs, but you can still follow these tips and get some really good images.

10. Get creative! Getting good firework photographs consists of some planning, a lot of experimentation and a little bit of luck – there’s no way to predict what you are going to get! Just have fun with it and don’t take it too seriously; you’ll most likely end up having a really good time and will probably go home with some great photos, too.

by scottbourne