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Sunday, January 8, 2012

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Saturday, January 7, 2012

5 amazing of night photography

Night photography refers to photographs taken outdoors between dusk and dawn. Night photographers generally have a choice between using artificial light and using a long exposure, exposing the scene for seconds, minutes, and even hours in order to give the film or digital sensor enough time to capture a usable image. With the progress of high-speed films, higher-sensitivity digital image sensors, wide-aperture lenses, and the ever-greater power of urban lights, night photography is increasingly possible using available light. This is 5 example amazing of night photography :

 

By  : Jose Maria Cuellar

 

By : oops_a_memory

 

By : paul bica

 

By : Oliver wu

 

By : John Mueller

 

 

Friday, January 6, 2012

When Should Mode 'M' on Cameras Used?

Users of digital cameras will look silly if still using M mode (Manual)," he said Sari or Marrysa Tunjung nicknamed Sasha early in his workshop sessions.

Namun tentu saja pernyataan tersebut berlaku untuk kondisi-kondisi tertentu, terutama untuk pemotretan jurnalistik di mana seorang fotografer tidak boleh ketinggalan moment hanya karena terlalu lama melakukan pengaturan. But of course this statement applies to certain conditions, especially for journalism scene where a photographer should not miss the moment just because it's too long to do the settings.
Hampir semua jajaran kamera sekarang sudah memiliki lightmeter, itulah alasan yang dikemukakan atas pernyataannya tersebut. Almost all camera range now has a lightmeter, that's stated reasons for his statements. Dengan mode Av/A/F (tergantung merk kameranya) atau Tv/S, pengguna kamera sudah mendapatkan pengaturan yang lebih gampang. With Av mode / A / F (depending on camera brand) or Tv / S, users have gotten the camera settings easier.

"Para vendor kamera sudah memperhitungkan banyal hal dengan menghadirkan mode-mode tersebut" papar sosok yang dikenal dengan nama Twitter @poeticpicture ini lebih lanjut.
The camera vendors already take into account many things by presenting these modes" said the figure known as the Twitter @ poeticpicture this further”.
Dengan Av, fotografer tinggal mengatur bukaannya, sedang shutternya akan mengikuti secara otomatis.

With Av, photographers live set opening, being shutternya will follow automatically. Kebalikan dengan Tv, shutternya yang diatur oleh pengguna, sedangkan aperture atau bukaannya akan mengikuti. Contrary to the Tv, shutternya are set by the user, while the aperture or opening will follow.

Lantas, kapankah kita sebaiknya memakai mode? So, when we should use the mode? Ada 3 kondisi di mana M cocok dipakai, yakni: There are three conditions where M suitable for use, namely:

1.Underwater 1.Underwater
Mode M cocok dipakai di sini karena partikel di dalam air sangat bermacam-macam. M mode suitable for use here because the particles in the water varies considerably.

2. 2. Studio Studio
Lighting di dalam studio sudah fix (tidak berubah-ubah), sehingga pengguna cocok memakai mode Manual. Lighting in the studio already fixed (not changing), so that users wear suitable Manual mode.

3. 3. Long Exposure Long Exposure
Mode M juga pantas dipakai bila pengguna menginginkan long exposure pada pemandangan, laut, atau city scape. M mode is also used when users want a decent long exposure to the sights, sea, or the city scape.

Mode M adalah mode di mana pengguna yang mengatur sendiri semua settingan yang diperlukan seperti diafragma (aperture) dan shutter speed. M mode is the mode in which users set up their own all the necessary settings such as the diaphragm (aperture) and shutter speed.

Sasha, mantan fotografer sport ini membagi ilmu mengenai mode kamera tersebut di salah satu sesi PictFest 2011 yang diadakan di fX LifeStyke X'ntre, Jakarta, Jumat (9/12/2011). Sasha, a former sports photographer is sharing the knowledge about the mode of the camera in one of the sessions held in 2011 PictFest LifeStyke X'ntre fX, Jakarta, Friday (12/09/2011). Acara PictFest ini sendiri masih berlangsung hingga hari ini, Minggu (10/12/2011).

 

www.detik.com

Thursday, January 5, 2012

5 Tips for an Architectural Photographer Blog

When you decide to set up a photographer blog for your architectural photography business, there are a few things that you need to know in order to get the best results. Your blog will be the first point of contact for many potential customers, and you will need to get it right from the start. The following tips should help you with the basics of setting up an effective blog.

1.Creative Domain Name
Get yourself a good and creative domain name that will be memorable and one that you can build on in the long term. Thought and research are necessary for you to find and purchase a great domain name.

2. Use Multimedia
 Well prepared and presented multimedia is very effective as it gives a real life feel to your blog. The use of multimedia is also more interactive for anyone visiting your blog.

 3. Tasteful Display Have a great display that is tasteful and stirs interest. The display of your previous work will sell you to new clients, and it needs to be excellent. A poor display will sell you short and lose prospective clients.

 4. Quality Writing
Beyond having a great display, people visiting your blog will only come back or refer others if you write well. Choose interesting topics that others will want to discuss and read about.

 5. Incorporate SEO
You will need to employ SEO (search engine optimization) techniques to generate traffic for your blog. While doing this, remember not to lose the quality of your blog by having key words and key links overused in an attempt to gain in ranking.

 http://www.steves-digicams.com

Black and White Photography Tips

1. Shoot in RAW

I know many readers of DPS can’t shoot in RAW (because their camera doesn’t offer it) or don’t shoot in RAW (because they either don’t know how or don’t like to) but for the most control in the post production phase of converting your color images into black and white ones – you’ll want to shoot in RAW if your camera does allow it. Of course shooting in JPEG doesn’t stop you shooting in black and white – but if it’s an option, give RAW a go, you might be surprised by what it offers you in post production. More on RAW vs JPEG here.

2. Shoot in Color

If your camera doesn’t allow you to shoot in RAW (or you choose not to) – shoot in color and do your conversion to black and white later on your computer.
While most digital cameras offer you the option to shoot in Black and White (and can produce some reasonable results) you have more control over your end results if you have the color data to work with in your conversion on your computer. (read more on the choice between shooting in black and white or post production conversion).
Update: There is an exception to shooting in Color and it’s when you’re taking note of point 1 above (shooting in RAW). When shooting in RAW and switching to Black and White mode you see your results in the LCD in black and white but the camera actually records all of the information (including color) – the best of both worlds. But if you’re shooting in JPEG – shoot in color and do the conversion later. Thanks to Joost (in comments) for the reminder to include this.
3. Low ISO
Shoot with the lowest possible ISO possible. While this is something that most of us do in color

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

How to Convert an Image to a Duotone in Photoshop

A duotone is an image made up of just two colors. It’s often used in the printing world where a photograph is included in a publication and where the publisher wants to use some color on the page but not pay for full color printing. As a duotone, the image is created as a mix of two colors – hence its name duotone. Typically the colors are black and a spot color but they can be any two colors.
You can convert a photo to a duotone in Photoshop using its Duotone feature and you can customize the duotone and determine just how much of each color is applied to the image.
Here’s how to convert your photo into a duotone in Photoshop:

Step 1

Open your photo in Photoshop and apply any desired adjustments to it – concentrate more on developing pleasing contrast in the image than on the colors because in the next step you will be removing the color.

Clean Your DSLR's lens

Cleaning your camera’s lenses should be a regular (although not too regular) part of any camera owner’s maintenance. While you do need to be very careful during this process it’s not something to be frightened about. The best time to clean a lens is when it’s dirty – don’t get in the habit of cleaning it off daily or you’ll do more damage than good. However when the time comes to clean it here are a few simple tips:

Use a UV or Skylight filter

Before I get into cleaning techniques let me share a tip that all DSLR users should consider. For each lens you own you should consider purchasing a UV or skylight filter. Keep it attached to your lens at all times. In addition to it cutting out UV light they will protect your lens from scratches or even breakage. It also means that when you do your cleaning you’ll just be cleaning the filter instead of the actual lens (unless dust gets right in). Keep in mind that filters come in different levels of quality – if you have a high end lens consider investing in a higher end filter.
Lens hoods can also help protect the end of your lens as do the lens caps for both the front and back end of your lens that come with it – always use them!

Lens Cleaning Fluid

In most camera stores you’ll find an alcohol based lens cleaning fluid that is well worth having. It will help you to lift off fingerprints and other smudges without leaving streaks on your lens or filter. Keep in mind that you don’t need too much of this fluid at a time – usually just a drop or two wiped in a gentle circular motion with a cleaning tissue will remove most marks on a lens or filter. Always apply the fluid to a cloth or tissue rather than the lens itself.
Alternatively – many photographers believe that simply breathing on your lens and then wiping with a cloth