Tamron SP AF 90mm f/2.8 Di Macro Lens

Introduction

The Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 SP Di macro is a recent update to the highly popular AF 90mm f/2.8 SP macro. The lens is a designated Di (Digitally Integrated) lens which refers to an optimized lens design for image sensors specially regarding chromatic aberrations (CAs). Tamron also improved the coating of the lens elements to take care of the more pronounced reflections from the image sensor. The lens belongs to Tamron's SP (Super Performance) line up indicating a professional grade lens similar to Sigma's EX lenses. On APS-C DSLRs the field-of-view is equivalent to about 145mm on full format cameras. The primary application of the lens is, obviously, macro photography but it's not limited to that - infinity focus is possible.

SPECIFICATIONS

Model	272E
Focal length	90mm
Maximum aperture	f/2.8
Angle of view	27°
Lens construction	10 elements in 9 groups
MOD (minimum object distance)	0.29m / 11.4"
Magnification ratio	1:1
Filter size	55mm
Overall length	86.5mm / 3.41"
Maximum diameter	83.2mm / 3.28"
Weight	405g / 14.3oz
Number of diaphragm blades	9
Minimum aperture	f/32
Standard accessory included	Hood

 

Figure 1 : Tamron SP AF 90 mm f/2.8 Di macro

Photo Example

 

The optical construction is made of 12 elements in 9 groups without any special elements. The lens features 9 aperture blades. Typical for most macro lenses the lens provides a max. magnification of 1:1 at a min. focus distance of 0.29m. The filter size is 55mm. With a weight of 405g and a size of 72x97mm it is more compact than e.g. the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM macro - at least a infinity focus. The length of the lens grows substantially when focusing towards closer distances.

The build quality is very good with an exceptionally smooth but little damped focus ring. The front element does not rotate so using a polarizer is not problem. Besides the lens and a softbag the lens package also includes a lens hood but this is really a strictly optional accessory item because the front element resides deep within the lens (about 2cm below the front) making it a little hard to clean the lens.

Switching between manual and auto-focus isn't done via a small switch as typical for most lenses but via a focus clutch mechanism by moving the focus ring back and forth. This can be done in any focus position. Quite nice actually (Canon & Nikon only. On Minolta and Pentax DSLRs it is a two step process). On the downside the friction of the mechanism is quite high so if you pre-focus using AF and switch back to MF you tend to shift the focus setting. The AF speed is decent for a macro lens.

 

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10 Fireworks Photography Tips

Photo by : http://basedigitalphotography.com/

Tomorrow is Independence Day in the United States, and a large percentage of people will be out celebrating. One very traditional part of July 4th is watching fireworks displays, and if you are like me then you will probably be out with your camera tomorrow evening. Here are a few tips to help you get some great fireworks photographs:

1. Use a tripod. You need to make sure that your camera is as still and stable as possible to get the best shots.

2. If you have a cable release, be sure to bring it! If you don’t have a cable release, you can also try playing with the self-timer feature but your shots and opportunities will be limited. Some camera models have off-brand cable-releases for under $20 … if you are interested in doing any type of night or experimental photography then I highly recommend getting one.

3. Shoot in “manual” mode. Use a low ISO, set your aperture somewhere in the middle (usually between f/8 and f/16) and set your shutter speed to “bulb”. Then, as the fireworks go off, hold the shutter open for 5-10 seconds. Try a few different settings within the first minute of the show to get a good feel for the light and speed of the fireworks. (The overall exposure values are going to vary depending on the amount of ambient light/fireworks/etc; there’s really no steadfast formula.)

4. Plan ahead. Get to your location early and try to find out where the fireworks will be coming from. You want to set up your gear well before the start of the show … many of the displays go very quickly, and if you know the general direction to aim your camera then you are already one step ahead.

5. Don’t just photograph the fireworks. Look at your surroundings and see what else you can include in the photo. People? Bridges? A significant landmark? Additional elements and identifiable scenery in the frame will add a lot of depth to your image.

6. Watch for smoke. If you can figure out which direction the wind will be blowing then try to position yourself upwind so the smoke will blow away from you. Smoke will really light up with the bursts, and if it’s between you and the fireworks then your photos will suffer.

7. Minimize chimping. Fireworks displays go very quickly and if you are always checking your LCD after each shot then you will miss out on tons of great images. It’s a good idea to check your exposure every once in a while (especially right at the beginning), but once you think you have the right settings then try to curb the temptation to look at each image until after the show.

8. Want to see more bursts and fewer trails? No problem! Find a sturdy piece of black (or dark) cardboard and, when the shutter is open, cover up the lens as the fireworks are making their way to the sky. Then, right before they explode, remove the cardboard. Boom!

9. Film shooters of the world, never fear! My best fireworks photos were from my film days (one good example is the image in this post). You don’t have instant feedback like you do with digital SLRs, but you can still follow these tips and get some really good images.

10. Get creative! Getting good firework photographs consists of some planning, a lot of experimentation and a little bit of luck – there’s no way to predict what you are going to get! Just have fun with it and don’t take it too seriously; you’ll most likely end up having a really good time and will probably go home with some great photos, too.

by scottbourne

 

 

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5 amazing of night photography

Night photography refers to photographs taken outdoors between dusk and dawn. Night photographers generally have a choice between using artificial light and using a long exposure, exposing the scene for seconds, minutes, and even hours in order to give the film or digital sensor enough time to capture a usable image. With the progress of high-speed films, higher-sensitivity digital image sensors, wide-aperture lenses, and the ever-greater power of urban lights, night photography is increasingly possible using available light. This is 5 example amazing of night photography :

 

By  : Jose Maria Cuellar

 

By : oops_a_memory

 

By : paul bica

 

By : Oliver wu

 

By : John Mueller

 

 

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When Should Mode 'M' on Cameras Used?

Users of digital cameras will look silly if still using M mode (Manual)," he said Sari or Marrysa Tunjung nicknamed Sasha early in his workshop sessions.

Namun tentu saja pernyataan tersebut berlaku untuk kondisi-kondisi tertentu, terutama untuk pemotretan jurnalistik di mana seorang fotografer tidak boleh ketinggalan moment hanya karena terlalu lama melakukan pengaturan. But of course this statement applies to certain conditions, especially for journalism scene where a photographer should not miss the moment just because it's too long to do the settings.
Hampir semua jajaran kamera sekarang sudah memiliki lightmeter, itulah alasan yang dikemukakan atas pernyataannya tersebut. Almost all camera range now has a lightmeter, that's stated reasons for his statements. Dengan mode Av/A/F (tergantung merk kameranya) atau Tv/S, pengguna kamera sudah mendapatkan pengaturan yang lebih gampang. With Av mode / A / F (depending on camera brand) or Tv / S, users have gotten the camera settings easier.

"Para vendor kamera sudah memperhitungkan banyal hal dengan menghadirkan mode-mode tersebut" papar sosok yang dikenal dengan nama Twitter @poeticpicture ini lebih lanjut.The camera vendors already take into account many things by presenting these modes" said the figure known as the Twitter @ poeticpicture this further”.
Dengan Av, fotografer tinggal mengatur bukaannya, sedang shutternya akan mengikuti secara otomatis.

With Av, photographers live set opening, being shutternya will follow automatically. Kebalikan dengan Tv, shutternya yang diatur oleh pengguna, sedangkan aperture atau bukaannya akan mengikuti. Contrary to the Tv, shutternya are set by the user, while the aperture or opening will follow.

Lantas, kapankah kita sebaiknya memakai mode? So, when we should use the mode? Ada 3 kondisi di mana M cocok dipakai, yakni: There are three conditions where M suitable for use, namely:

1.Underwater 1.Underwater
Mode M cocok dipakai di sini karena partikel di dalam air sangat bermacam-macam. M mode suitable for use here because the particles in the water varies considerably.

2. 2. Studio Studio
Lighting di dalam studio sudah fix (tidak berubah-ubah), sehingga pengguna cocok memakai mode Manual. Lighting in the studio already fixed (not changing), so that users wear suitable Manual mode.

3. 3. Long Exposure Long Exposure
Mode M juga pantas dipakai bila pengguna menginginkan long exposure pada pemandangan, laut, atau city scape. M mode is also used when users want a decent long exposure to the sights, sea, or the city scape.

Mode M adalah mode di mana pengguna yang mengatur sendiri semua settingan yang diperlukan seperti diafragma (aperture) dan shutter speed. M mode is the mode in which users set up their own all the necessary settings such as the diaphragm (aperture) and shutter speed.

Sasha, mantan fotografer sport ini membagi ilmu mengenai mode kamera tersebut di salah satu sesi PictFest 2011 yang diadakan di fX LifeStyke X'ntre, Jakarta, Jumat (9/12/2011). Sasha, a former sports photographer is sharing the knowledge about the mode of the camera in one of the sessions held in 2011 PictFest LifeStyke X'ntre fX, Jakarta, Friday (12/09/2011). Acara PictFest ini sendiri masih berlangsung hingga hari ini, Minggu (10/12/2011).

 

www.detik.com

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5 Tips for an Architectural Photographer Blog

When you decide to set up a photographer blog for your architectural photography business, there are a few things that you need to know in order to get the best results. Your blog will be the first point of contact for many potential customers, and you will need to get it right from the start. The following tips should help you with the basics of setting up an effective blog.

1.Creative Domain Name
Get yourself a good and creative domain name that will be memorable and one that you can build on in the long term. Thought and research are necessary for you to find and purchase a great domain name.

2. Use Multimedia
 Well prepared and presented multimedia is very effective as it gives a real life feel to your blog. The use of multimedia is also more interactive for anyone visiting your blog.

 3. Tasteful Display Have a great display that is tasteful and stirs interest. The display of your previous work will sell you to new clients, and it needs to be excellent. A poor display will sell you short and lose prospective clients.

 4. Quality Writing
Beyond having a great display, people visiting your blog will only come back or refer others if you write well. Choose interesting topics that others will want to discuss and read about.

 5. Incorporate SEO
You will need to employ SEO (search engine optimization) techniques to generate traffic for your blog. While doing this, remember not to lose the quality of your blog by having key words and key links overused in an attempt to gain in ranking.

 http://www.steves-digicams.com

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Black and White Photography Tips

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1. Shoot in RAW

I know many readers of DPS can’t shoot in RAW (because their camera doesn’t offer it) or don’t shoot in RAW (because they either don’t know how or don’t like to) but for the most control in the post production phase of converting your color images into black and white ones – you’ll want to shoot in RAW if your camera does allow it. Of course shooting in JPEG doesn’t stop you shooting in black and white – but if it’s an option, give RAW a go, you might be surprised by what it offers you in post production. More on RAW vs JPEG here.

2. Shoot in Color

If your camera doesn’t allow you to shoot in RAW (or you choose not to) – shoot in color and do your conversion to black and white later on your computer.

While most digital cameras offer you the option to shoot in Black and White (and can produce some reasonable results) you have more control over your end results if you have the color data to work with in your conversion on your computer. (read more on the choice between shooting in black and white or post production conversion).

Update: There is an exception to shooting in Color and it’s when you’re taking note of point 1 above (shooting in RAW). When shooting in RAW and switching to Black and White mode you see your results in the LCD in black and white but the camera actually records all of the information (including color) – the best of both worlds. But if you’re shooting in JPEG – shoot in color and do the conversion later. Thanks to Joost (in comments) for the reminder to include this.

3. Low ISO

Shoot with the lowest possible ISO possible. While this is something that most of us do in color

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